AHAs and BHAs are exfoliating acids. Rather than polishing skin with grains, they gently loosen the tired cells that sit on the surface, so they lift away more evenly and skin looks smoother and brighter. AHAs, such as glycolic, lactic and mandelic acid, work on the surface and suit most skin types. BHA, which in skincare almost always means salicylic acid, also works within the pores, which is why it is often chosen for oily skin and skin prone to blemishes. Introduced slowly, used in the evening and paired with a daily SPF, an acid is one of the most rewarding steps in a routine.
Chemical Exfoliation or a Scrub?
A scrub exfoliates by friction: small particles buff the surface as you massage them in. It feels immediate, but the result depends on how hard you rub, and it is easy to overdo on the face. A chemical exfoliant works without friction. The acid loosens the bonds that hold surface cells together, so they shed at a steadier pace. You apply it and leave it, and the work happens evenly across the skin.
That evenness is why we reach for acids first. They are easier to control, they come as a toner, a serum or a mask, and you choose the strength by choosing the product, not by how much pressure you apply.
What Are AHAs?
Alpha hydroxy acids are water-soluble, so they work on the surface of the skin. Three appear most often, and the main difference between them is the size of the molecule, which affects how quickly each one works.
- Glycolic acid is the smallest, so it works quickly. It is the classic choice for the look of dullness and uneven texture, and it can tingle, especially at first.
- Lactic acid is a little larger and gentler. It also helps skin feel hydrated, which is why it is often chosen for normal to dry skin.
- Mandelic acid is larger again and works more slowly. It is often the choice when other acids feel like too much.
What Is BHA?
Beta hydroxy acid in skincare almost always means salicylic acid. Unlike AHAs, it is oil-soluble, so it can work through the oil on the skin and into the lining of the pore. That is why it is chosen for oily or combination skin, for the look of enlarged pores and for skin prone to blemishes. It is usually used at lower percentages than AHAs, and it sits comfortably alongside soothing ingredients such as aloe.
Some formulas combine the two, working on the surface and in the pores at once. A blend can suit combination skin, though it is worth starting slowly with any mix.
Toners, Serums or Masks?
The format decides how the acid fits your week. An acid toner is applied after cleansing, with a cotton pad or your hands, and is usually the gentlest everyday option. A serum is more concentrated and stays on the skin, so it does more with each use. A mask or peel is a short step you rinse away, often used once a week.
For a first acid, a toner is the calmest place to begin. L'Oréal Paris Revitalift Peeling Toner pairs 5% glycolic acid with watermelon extract, and its pack states it is suitable for sensitive skin. Caudalie Vinoperfect Concentrated Brightening Glycolic Essence brings glycolic acid together with grape water, to use between cleansing and serum. Benton Aloe BHA Skin Toner sets 0.5% salicylic acid in a slightly acidic aloe base, and Biretix Oil Control Solution Facial Retexturising Toner combines glycolic and mandelic acids for oily skin that wants a more matte finish.
- Revitalift Peeling Toner
- Vinoperfect Concentrated Brightening Glycolic Essence
- Aloe BHA Skin Toner
- Oil Control Solution Facial Retexturising Toner
When you want more, a serum or a mask is the next step. The Conscious Renewal Serum is built on 5% lactic acid with niacinamide and hyaluronic acid, for normal to dry skin. Revox B77 Just Mandelic Acid 10% + HA Mild Exfoliation Face Serum keeps to two key ingredients, mandelic and hyaluronic acid. Institut Esthederm Intensive Propolis+ Salicylic Acid Face Serum pairs salicylic acid with propolis, for skin prone to blemishes and the look of pores. For a weekly ritual, Elemis Dynamic Resurfacing Gel Mask combines glycolic acid with papain, a fruit enzyme, in a gel you rinse away.
- Renewal Serum
- Just Mandelic Acid 10% + HA Mild Exfoliation Face Serum
- Intensive Propolis+ Salicylic Acid Face Serum
- Dynamic Resurfacing Gel Mask
How Often, and When?
Begin with two or three evenings a week, and build towards more frequent use only if your skin stays comfortable. Evenings suit acids best: skin has the night to settle, and several of these products direct evening use in their own instructions. Apply to clean, dry skin, avoid the eye area, and follow with a moisturiser.
A light tingle can be normal at first. Lasting stinging, redness or tightness is a sign to stop, give skin a few days off, then return less often or choose a gentler acid such as lactic or mandelic.
Patch Test First
Before using any new acid on your face, apply a small amount to a discreet area, such as the side of the jaw or behind the ear, and wait a day or two. If skin stays calm, introduce the product slowly. If you are pregnant or breastfeeding, ask your pharmacist or doctor before using an acid product.
Sun Sensitivity and Daily SPF
Exfoliating acids can make skin more sensitive to the sun, both while you use them and for some time after. That makes a broad-spectrum SPF each morning part of using an acid, not an extra. Apply it generously as the last step of your morning routine, and reapply when you spend time outdoors.
The SPF to pair is the one you are happy to wear every day. La Roche-Posay Anthelios XL SPF 50+ Dry Touch Face Sunscreen is a light gel-cream with a dry-touch, anti-shine finish. Isdin Gel Cream Dry Touch SPF 50+ Sunscreen is light and matte, for face and body. Clarins Youth-Protecting Sunscreen SPF 50+ offers very high protection in a water-resistant formula, and Dior Solar La Crème Protectrice SPF 50 Face Sunscreen is a comfortable daily cream with UVA and UVB protection.
- Anthelios XL SPF 50+ Dry Touch Face Sunscreen
- Gel Cream Dry Touch SPF 50+ Sunscreen
- Youth-Protecting Sunscreen SPF 50+
- Solar La Crème Protectrice SPF 50 Face Sunscreen
Why Not Use Several Acids at Once?
It is tempting to begin with an acid toner, an acid serum and a retinol in the same week. Skin rarely responds well to that. Introduce one exfoliating product at a time and give it several weeks before adding another. Keep acids away from the evenings you use retinol or a scrub until you know how your skin responds, and keep the rest of the routine simple: a gentle cleanser, a moisturiser and SPF.
Where to Begin
If you are new to acids, choose one toner that suits your skin: glycolic or lactic for dullness and dry patches, salicylic for shine and blemishes. Use it two or three evenings a week, with SPF every morning. Once that feels easy, you will know whether a serum or a weekly mask has earned its place.
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